Nainital - the queen of Kumaon Himalaya

Stay at Nainital on return journey

We could have relaxed for a while in the morning as we were in our return mode. We planned a break at Nainital for the ease of long drive from Binsar to Noida. 

But we did not want to miss another Sunrise at Binsar for which we came here after a long journey.  

We set alarm at quarter to six in the morning. We would have ample time to get refreshed and reach viewing platform. It was precisely 6:23 am, the Sun began to peak on the horizon and gradually illuminated the surrounding. 

Sunrise at Binsar

All the mountains, surroundings appeared to look the same, initially, until the sun had risen enough to highlight the first bit of white, snow-covered beauty of the Himalayas. The sight was alluring and awe-inspiring.

Many people were there on our rooftop. Everybody were awake before dawn to experience this magnificent sight.

Nandadevi at Sunrise from Binsar

Kumaon Himalaya from Binsar at the day break 

The valley below the mountain was tainted; no longer an abyss of black, nor did it appear blue. Instead it looked a metallic grey. 

Glistening peaks of Trishul - Maiktoli

The peaks were glistening as occasional spear of light pierced through the slate colored Sarju valley and danced over the surface.

Tea was served at the viewing platforms. The warmth of the sunrays bathed us, made us comfortable with glass of hot tea. People started sharing their experiences of beautiful sunrises at Munsiyari, from Choukori, from Kausani.

Binsar KMVN

We spent quite a good time in the fresh air under the warmth of morning Sun. Time passed by. Caretaker announced that hot water would be ready in few minutes. We broke our adda. 

Now it was time to pack up. After breakfast we would be moving to Nainital. Hotel was not booked. I glanced upon the route on a wall map.

The route was simple - Binsar - Bageswar road - Kaparkhan - Almora Bypass - Kwarab Bridge - Suyalbari - Bhowali - Nainital around 90-95 km run. With casual driving we could reach there by lunch time.

We had our buffet breakfast. Cleared our bill and for the last time came upon to the viewing platform. It was empty as people were busy in breakfast.

It was high time to do a 360 deg photography at the platform.

We started our journey around 9:30am. Slowly rolling down along the dirt dirt through the forest.

A troop of monkeys were following us. I was cautious as they were crossing the road from both side, as if we were in a crowded market. Something might have happened. They seemed aggressive and disturbed. Possibly, my earlier vehicle might have hit one.

They were disturbed.

We managed to cross the area unharmed without any incident. At the check post, we bade good bye to the chowkidar. 

Weather was sunny, clear blue sky above, far ahead the mist covered the hills in blue haze. We reached Almora via Kaparkhan and decided to follow bypass road. It is a longer route but wide and less traffic. After around 9 km from the bypass entry we reached the old highway. The road was smooth, driving downhill. After Khwarab bridge, the road moves along Kosi river. 

A causeway on a tributary to Kosi river Bhowali - Almora road.

It was almost level road, traffic was fast, so following the rule of hill driving, I was driving cautiously. 

After 8 km from Suyalbari, we stopped in a traffic jam. Some DL registered Taxi's as usual on the wrong lane going ahead. We were behind a bus. People were discussing about a landslide ahead of us. I came out and inquired and saw a cloud of dusts generated because of the landslide. A car had a narrow escape while crossing the area. Down below Kosi river was flowing as if nothing happened.

After half an hour, there was a commotions. Wrong side vehicles were searching for gaps in between to allow traffics from other side. Local volunteers were started helping the tourist. Gradually small vehicles were allowed through a narrow passage at their own risk. Occasionally stones were falling from above. Buses were not allowed through this narrow passage. 

Landslide on the road.

It was our turn to cross the zone. One volunteer guided us to move forward. And we crossed. Thank God. On the other side there was a long queue of vehicles in waiting.

Another 27 km after a beautiful drive we reached Bhowali market. A small lake town connecting almost all the Kumaon towns. It is a business hub. Situated at the height around 1400mtr in a valley with Bhimtal lake, it was ideal town for a sanatorium. 

Nearing Nainital we saw big buses of different travel agencies were parked along side the road. The road becomes narrow. We reached Nainital after 20 mins uphill drive. The lake emerged before our eyes. We parked our vehicle at Tallital Bus Stand. The famous Naini lake is in front of us.

Boats at the Tallital

A small sitting area is there by the side of the boating booth. Colourful boats were tied at the stand,  ready for customer to take a ride. 

Me & my daughter went for a hotel room. There are plenty of hotel along the Mall road. They are having very limited parking and almost full. We will spend only one night here, next day we would travel back to Noida. Other hotels are on the hill slope above the mall road. After you park your vehicle you have to climb up to your room. There is a public parking on the other side of the lake. Every time you enter the mall road you must pay the toll. We paid Rs 100/- for single entry.

The room rents are high, and being a peak season, rooms were also not available. Somehow we managed a room at Mansarovar hotel, which has one parking space free.

Mall road entry at Talli Tal side, Nainital

An old building, maintained with meager means, we had no choice but to get into that. A bed room with a sitting area having a single bed in it. At the backside there is a bath with a netted opening for ventilation. The room was at the elevation of 5th floor from the road. From the common balcony the lake is visible. The location is very good but the quality of the rooms.

We kept our bags and quickly prepared glasses of tea using my tea kit. Refreshed we came out for a boat ride and sightseeing.

Near the bus-stand, I was searching for a decent restaurant and decided to take the boat ride first and walked down the Mall road. At the bus stand, I tried to do a 360 deg photo of the location.

Nainital town & Hotels from Lake

At the boating counter, there were two three options - RS 150/- for the full boat - half trip. Rs 210/- for a full trip - actually return from a marked buoy. or Rs 210/- for one sided trip to the other end. 

We opted for the last one and desired to go on the other side and came back following the Mall road.

Hanuman Temple by Lake side

We donned life-jackets and stepped on the boat. We were excited and clicked random photographs of the town and surroundings. 

Nainital Library at the Mall road

It was a beautiful boat ride, we were so ecstatic that we forgot to see the time. We reached other side in no time.

Naina Devi temple - Malli Tal side

There is a Temple dedicated to Naina Devi.

The presiding deity of the temple is Maa Naina Devi represented by two Netras or eyes. Nainital is one of the 64 Shaktipeeths also known as religious sites of Hinduism.

Naina Devi Temple

After offering Puja to the presiding deity of Nainital, we came out to a market place. It is a Bhotia market as locals call it. There are lot of eateries, fast foods, Chinese products, shops for Woolen garments, bags and fashion accessories, similar to any temple town. 

We were hungry and it was a rush hour. We could manage three seats at the China Town fast food restaurant, people were standing outside waiting for their turn. Quickly we ordered chicken momo, veg. chowmein and chicken manchurian as these were quick to serve. 

Lunch ordered, paid, waiting for the serve

Because of the crowd and the rush, the food was served prepaid. Momos were large in size and spicy with chilly sauce, chowmein was prepared in Punjab style with lot of spices and Manchurian gravy was real spicy - as a whole we selectively had our lunch and decided walk till we digest all spices.

Naini lake from Malli Tal

It was three o'clock in the afternoon. The mall road side hill was brightened up in the setting sun. Glasses in windows were reflecting sun light occasionally like a flash.

There is a old cinema hall here - The Capitol renovated to a New Capitol. We walked along the lakeside quay till we reached the boating club. From here one can hire a sail boat, which we see in a signature photograph of Nainital.

Sail boats can be hired from the Boat Club

The mall road starts with a toll booth. Opposite traffics are separated with two roads at different levels.

Honey bees 

We strolled leisurely along the Mall road and did some window shopping. There is a shop selling locally made honey & jams. We gave it a try. There are variety of honeys and jams. Apricot jam was good and so was the sunflower honey. These are made at a food processing plant near Bhowali.

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Roadside there is a Plaque near the Grand Hotel. Going by the Google map one cannot imagine how the cars were parked on the approach road to the Hotel. We yearned for hi-tea and tried at roadside stall. It was okay but we needed our brand.

Parking on the approach road to Grand Hotel - Nainital

We reached the other side and yearned for hi-tea again. As usual, tea kit was there to help us, because it would be difficult to get a taste of Darjeeling tea liquor at a roadside stall. 

Twilight zone - Naini Lake

Relaxed for an hour after the hi-tea, we came out to the balcony. It was cold out-side, and twilight. 

Naina Devi Temple decorated with Diwali Lights on the far side of the lake

Shops, buildings were decorated with colorful Diwali light. We were travelling during the festival of lights.

Nainital duing Diwali festival

Down to Mall road, it was like a big Super Market. Lights all around, lake side road, reflection of lights in the placid lake water. 

No vehicular traffic were allowed on the upper road, Mall road Nainital

End to end, it is 1.5 km. Shops, restaurants, showrooms, hotels on one side along the upper road and lake on the other side.  The shops along the Mall Road selling trendy knitted hats and mufflers or the stalls selling steamed corn in a paper cup or momos or chaats give you a break whenever you need one. 

Barricade for vehicular traffic at Mall road.

We strolled along the road, till we were hungry for a good dinner. There were lots of Veg. restaurants with sign board "Pure Veg" in the line with Non-Veg restaurants. Most of the restaurants were crowded and full when we started looking for a good one. We could locate one having table available just for us. It was Embassy restaurant and non-vegetarian dishes are also available here. We ordered a full chicken tandoori and a plate of Chicken Biryani. Both are north Indian dishes. And they were delicious.

Mansarovar Hotel balcony

We came back to our hotel and the hardest thing we did was to climb up to our room at five storeys high. Too much after a full course dinner.

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