Visit to pristine Jageshwar Dham
I heard in my dream that I was in a crowded place. Somebody yelled at his son to wake up to see Sunrise. Footsteps on our roof were heard. I woke up in a dark room and recalled that we were in Binsar. No lights in the room. I lit up the candles. Outside was still dark. We all woke up to view the Sunrise. Quickly we freshened up and dressed with jackets, gloves covered ourselves against the chilly morning.
It was windy and still dark outside.The last of the morning’s stars were glinting like silver pin pricks, luminous and bright. We came up at the viewing platform on roof of our building. Guests were all covered with winter clothings. After few minutes, the dawn had started breaking.
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| Daybreak at Binsar |
The sky in the opposite direction was still dark, but in the east, a mixture of yellow and orange on the horizon beneath a dark neon blue ocean of night that had begun to evaporate.
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| The rising sun laminated us with warmth |
The distant snow peaks of Kumaon Himalaya shone in the morning rays.
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| From Left to right - Trishul - Devastan - Nanda Devi |
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| Trishul |
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| Kumaon Range |
Tea was served at the viewing platform. Everybody were happy to see the Sunrise. Some started doing Kapalbhati, few were getting ready with freehand exercise before the breakfast.
Caretaker announced the availability of hot water in bucket. Attendant would bring that as required. Each bathroom has two buckets - one for collecting the hot water and other for mixing. Guests had to keep empty bucket outside the room in the corridor. Attendant carrying hot water in metal buckets poured hot water to the empty buckets. One bucket for each guest.
We got freshened up. By the time, buffet breakfast was served at the dining hall. Delicious breakfast with variety of choices - bread, butter, jam, corn flakes, poori sabji, dahlia etc.
We had whole day to stay at Binsar. I was just studying the map hung in the corridor.
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| Places around Binsar |
Jageshwar would be a nice place to visit and utilise the time. On enquiry, I was told that there is a drivable route between Gairad Bend to Palyu Bend, but the road is bad. After the breakfast we thought to give that a try.
We drove down to check post at the Bageshwar road, asked the guard whether we would have to pay the entry fees again. They confirmed that with presentation of last receipt, the security would allow us to enter again. Gladly we came out and drove towards Almora for two kilometers. We reached Gairad Bend.
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| Gairad Bend named after Gairad god. There is a temple in this road. |
I asked a passerby waiting at the bus stop. He asked for a lift, and I gladly accepted to get a guide free in this route. The road is a dirt road and lonely. There was no vehicular traffic in this road, so in case of emergency one has to manage oneself. So I decided to return by day time. Enroute, he wanted me to stop near a motorcycle parked roadside, no one was around. He thanked us.
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| Dirt road between Gairad bend to Palyu Bend |
But the solitude in this road was overwhelming. Never felt such, as a part of nature in our city life. The road is passing through the sanctuary area. Unfortunately we could not encounter any wildlife in this road.
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| Dirt road between Gairad bend to Palyu Bend |
After 13 kilometer we came to a good tarred road and as directed, took right turn. That's Palyu Bend.
The onward road was excellent, we reached Bare Chinna More and took left towards Artola. Oh, I missed the petrol pump at Bare Chinna as wanted to fill my tank. It read towards Empty. I trusted the person, I gave lift. He told that in Artola there is one petrol pump. Continuing our journey till Artola. The road was very good and the drive was enjoyable. Still finding no petrol pump we were informed that there is one 3 km ahead.
However we wanted to visit Jageshwar Dham first and took left. We entered a narrow valley with tall pipe trees both side of the road.
Jageshwar is located at an altitude of 1870 mts, in the Jataganga river valley near a Deodar forest starting from Artola village on Almora – Pithoragarh highway, where two streams Nandini and Surabhi flow down the hills in the narrow valley and meet near the sacred spot.
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| Road to Jageshwar |
Every sprawling tree we passed under reminded me of a watchful guardian, a silent sentinel of the groves.
We saw a temple by our right across the stream flowing along the road. That is Dandeshwar Mahadev Temple - the gate keeper temple of Jageshwar Dham.
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| Dandeshwar Mahadev at the entrance to Dham |
The temple city comprises a cluster of 124 large and small stone temples, dating back from 9th to 13th century AD. Archaeological Survey of India now preserve some of these temples.
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| Mrityunjoy Temple at the Jageshwar Dham complex |
There are many temples, some of them are Chandi-ka-Temple, Jageshwar Temple, Kuber Temple, Mrityunjoy Temple, Nanda Devi or Nau Durga, Nava-grah temple, a Pyramidal shrine, and Surya Temple, amongst which the oldest shrine is the Mrityunjaya Temple. I could not stopped myself to experiment with another immersive 360° photo.
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| Jageshwar Dham Complex |
For the devotees, there were lots of monkeys all around. They used to snatch the "Puja Offerings" and did not bother whether before the puja or after. So be careful.
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| Monkey business as usual in the temple premises |
Now-a-days, the Government of Uttarakhand and Parmarth Niketan (Rishikesh) are jointly organizing the International Yoga Festival at Jageshwar.
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| Temple Complex |
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| Jyotirling Jageshwar Temple |
We spent quite some time here. On our way back, we took the road to Pithoragarh at Artola in search of a petrol pump. We found one HP Petrol pump at Gurrhabanj a small hamlet on the ridge. This only dealt with cash. No card system was available.
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| Humara Pump - HP initiative |
Tankful, we trailed back the same route. As this area deals with cash only, we could locate an ATM only in Panuavanola, 4km from Artola.
We resumed our journey again, on our right the snow clad peaks peeped out occasionally in open areas.
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| Himalaya |
By that time, it was lunch time and, we felt hungry, and were in search of a restaurant. At Palyu we could locate one restaurant which serve lunch. Great!
I ordered some stuffed parathas and noodles (Maggi) - a staple diet in hills and always freshly prepared. We relished the dishes and after sometime we resumed our journey following the same route - the dirt road. Stomach full, my co-passengers fell asleep fast. At around 2:30 we reached at the check post.
The guard identified us and allowed in. En route to TRH there is one open space and a temple - Veeneshwar Temple.
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| Veeneshwar Temple inside Binsar Sanctuary |
Here I saw a remnant of British era. On our left there was a small hutment estd in 1907.
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| Hutment from british era estd in 1907 |
We reached TRH at 3:00pm. Grand outing to Jageshwar dham......
We joined the crowd at the viewing platform. Guests were gossiping, kids playing ludo, soaking in the mild afternoon Sun.
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| Kid, doing gymnastic - enjoying. They came from Mumbai. |
Far ahead snow clad peaks still visible, playing hide and seek with clouds. We could see Panchocholi beyond Munsiyari. A group of guest landed here that day from Munsiyari and were very disheartened to be far from Himalaya. Obviously, Munsiyari is situated in the lap of Panchocholi and Binsar is a bit far. We did some photo session.
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| Panchocholi from Binsar |
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| Peaks playing hide and seek |
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| Trishul at setting Sun light |
At nightfall again the daily routine of generator light - buffet dinner - and....waiting for another Sunrise to light up the world of Binsar....
continued....
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