Nainital - the queen of Kumaon Himalaya

Stay at Nainital on return journey

We could have relaxed for a while in the morning as we were in our return mode. We planned a break at Nainital for the ease of long drive from Binsar to Noida. 

But we did not want to miss another Sunrise at Binsar for which we came here after a long journey.  

We set alarm at quarter to six in the morning. We would have ample time to get refreshed and reach viewing platform. It was precisely 6:23 am, the Sun began to peak on the horizon and gradually illuminated the surrounding. 

Sunrise at Binsar

All the mountains, surroundings appeared to look the same, initially, until the sun had risen enough to highlight the first bit of white, snow-covered beauty of the Himalayas. The sight was alluring and awe-inspiring.

Many people were there on our rooftop. Everybody were awake before dawn to experience this magnificent sight.

Nandadevi at Sunrise from Binsar

Kumaon Himalaya from Binsar at the day break 

The valley below the mountain was tainted; no longer an abyss of black, nor did it appear blue. Instead it looked a metallic grey. 

Glistening peaks of Trishul - Maiktoli

The peaks were glistening as occasional spear of light pierced through the slate colored Sarju valley and danced over the surface.

Tea was served at the viewing platforms. The warmth of the sunrays bathed us, made us comfortable with glass of hot tea. People started sharing their experiences of beautiful sunrises at Munsiyari, from Choukori, from Kausani.

Binsar KMVN

We spent quite a good time in the fresh air under the warmth of morning Sun. Time passed by. Caretaker announced that hot water would be ready in few minutes. We broke our adda. 

Now it was time to pack up. After breakfast we would be moving to Nainital. Hotel was not booked. I glanced upon the route on a wall map.

The route was simple - Binsar - Bageswar road - Kaparkhan - Almora Bypass - Kwarab Bridge - Suyalbari - Bhowali - Nainital around 90-95 km run. With casual driving we could reach there by lunch time.

We had our buffet breakfast. Cleared our bill and for the last time came upon to the viewing platform. It was empty as people were busy in breakfast.

It was high time to do a 360 deg photography at the platform.

We started our journey around 9:30am. Slowly rolling down along the dirt dirt through the forest.

A troop of monkeys were following us. I was cautious as they were crossing the road from both side, as if we were in a crowded market. Something might have happened. They seemed aggressive and disturbed. Possibly, my earlier vehicle might have hit one.

They were disturbed.

We managed to cross the area unharmed without any incident. At the check post, we bade good bye to the chowkidar. 

Weather was sunny, clear blue sky above, far ahead the mist covered the hills in blue haze. We reached Almora via Kaparkhan and decided to follow bypass road. It is a longer route but wide and less traffic. After around 9 km from the bypass entry we reached the old highway. The road was smooth, driving downhill. After Khwarab bridge, the road moves along Kosi river. 

A causeway on a tributary to Kosi river Bhowali - Almora road.

It was almost level road, traffic was fast, so following the rule of hill driving, I was driving cautiously. 

After 8 km from Suyalbari, we stopped in a traffic jam. Some DL registered Taxi's as usual on the wrong lane going ahead. We were behind a bus. People were discussing about a landslide ahead of us. I came out and inquired and saw a cloud of dusts generated because of the landslide. A car had a narrow escape while crossing the area. Down below Kosi river was flowing as if nothing happened.

After half an hour, there was a commotions. Wrong side vehicles were searching for gaps in between to allow traffics from other side. Local volunteers were started helping the tourist. Gradually small vehicles were allowed through a narrow passage at their own risk. Occasionally stones were falling from above. Buses were not allowed through this narrow passage. 

Landslide on the road.

It was our turn to cross the zone. One volunteer guided us to move forward. And we crossed. Thank God. On the other side there was a long queue of vehicles in waiting.

Another 27 km after a beautiful drive we reached Bhowali market. A small lake town connecting almost all the Kumaon towns. It is a business hub. Situated at the height around 1400mtr in a valley with Bhimtal lake, it was ideal town for a sanatorium. 

Nearing Nainital we saw big buses of different travel agencies were parked along side the road. The road becomes narrow. We reached Nainital after 20 mins uphill drive. The lake emerged before our eyes. We parked our vehicle at Tallital Bus Stand. The famous Naini lake is in front of us.

Boats at the Tallital

A small sitting area is there by the side of the boating booth. Colourful boats were tied at the stand,  ready for customer to take a ride. 

Me & my daughter went for a hotel room. There are plenty of hotel along the Mall road. They are having very limited parking and almost full. We will spend only one night here, next day we would travel back to Noida. Other hotels are on the hill slope above the mall road. After you park your vehicle you have to climb up to your room. There is a public parking on the other side of the lake. Every time you enter the mall road you must pay the toll. We paid Rs 100/- for single entry.

The room rents are high, and being a peak season, rooms were also not available. Somehow we managed a room at Mansarovar hotel, which has one parking space free.

Mall road entry at Talli Tal side, Nainital

An old building, maintained with meager means, we had no choice but to get into that. A bed room with a sitting area having a single bed in it. At the backside there is a bath with a netted opening for ventilation. The room was at the elevation of 5th floor from the road. From the common balcony the lake is visible. The location is very good but the quality of the rooms.

We kept our bags and quickly prepared glasses of tea using my tea kit. Refreshed we came out for a boat ride and sightseeing.

Near the bus-stand, I was searching for a decent restaurant and decided to take the boat ride first and walked down the Mall road. At the bus stand, I tried to do a 360 deg photo of the location.

Nainital town & Hotels from Lake

At the boating counter, there were two three options - RS 150/- for the full boat - half trip. Rs 210/- for a full trip - actually return from a marked buoy. or Rs 210/- for one sided trip to the other end. 

We opted for the last one and desired to go on the other side and came back following the Mall road.

Hanuman Temple by Lake side

We donned life-jackets and stepped on the boat. We were excited and clicked random photographs of the town and surroundings. 

Nainital Library at the Mall road

It was a beautiful boat ride, we were so ecstatic that we forgot to see the time. We reached other side in no time.

Naina Devi temple - Malli Tal side

There is a Temple dedicated to Naina Devi.

The presiding deity of the temple is Maa Naina Devi represented by two Netras or eyes. Nainital is one of the 64 Shaktipeeths also known as religious sites of Hinduism.

Naina Devi Temple

After offering Puja to the presiding deity of Nainital, we came out to a market place. It is a Bhotia market as locals call it. There are lot of eateries, fast foods, Chinese products, shops for Woolen garments, bags and fashion accessories, similar to any temple town. 

We were hungry and it was a rush hour. We could manage three seats at the China Town fast food restaurant, people were standing outside waiting for their turn. Quickly we ordered chicken momo, veg. chowmein and chicken manchurian as these were quick to serve. 

Lunch ordered, paid, waiting for the serve

Because of the crowd and the rush, the food was served prepaid. Momos were large in size and spicy with chilly sauce, chowmein was prepared in Punjab style with lot of spices and Manchurian gravy was real spicy - as a whole we selectively had our lunch and decided walk till we digest all spices.

Naini lake from Malli Tal

It was three o'clock in the afternoon. The mall road side hill was brightened up in the setting sun. Glasses in windows were reflecting sun light occasionally like a flash.

There is a old cinema hall here - The Capitol renovated to a New Capitol. We walked along the lakeside quay till we reached the boating club. From here one can hire a sail boat, which we see in a signature photograph of Nainital.

Sail boats can be hired from the Boat Club

The mall road starts with a toll booth. Opposite traffics are separated with two roads at different levels.

Honey bees 

We strolled leisurely along the Mall road and did some window shopping. There is a shop selling locally made honey & jams. We gave it a try. There are variety of honeys and jams. Apricot jam was good and so was the sunflower honey. These are made at a food processing plant near Bhowali.

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Roadside there is a Plaque near the Grand Hotel. Going by the Google map one cannot imagine how the cars were parked on the approach road to the Hotel. We yearned for hi-tea and tried at roadside stall. It was okay but we needed our brand.

Parking on the approach road to Grand Hotel - Nainital

We reached the other side and yearned for hi-tea again. As usual, tea kit was there to help us, because it would be difficult to get a taste of Darjeeling tea liquor at a roadside stall. 

Twilight zone - Naini Lake

Relaxed for an hour after the hi-tea, we came out to the balcony. It was cold out-side, and twilight. 

Naina Devi Temple decorated with Diwali Lights on the far side of the lake

Shops, buildings were decorated with colorful Diwali light. We were travelling during the festival of lights.

Nainital duing Diwali festival

Down to Mall road, it was like a big Super Market. Lights all around, lake side road, reflection of lights in the placid lake water. 

No vehicular traffic were allowed on the upper road, Mall road Nainital

End to end, it is 1.5 km. Shops, restaurants, showrooms, hotels on one side along the upper road and lake on the other side.  The shops along the Mall Road selling trendy knitted hats and mufflers or the stalls selling steamed corn in a paper cup or momos or chaats give you a break whenever you need one. 

Barricade for vehicular traffic at Mall road.

We strolled along the road, till we were hungry for a good dinner. There were lots of Veg. restaurants with sign board "Pure Veg" in the line with Non-Veg restaurants. Most of the restaurants were crowded and full when we started looking for a good one. We could locate one having table available just for us. It was Embassy restaurant and non-vegetarian dishes are also available here. We ordered a full chicken tandoori and a plate of Chicken Biryani. Both are north Indian dishes. And they were delicious.

Mansarovar Hotel balcony

We came back to our hotel and the hardest thing we did was to climb up to our room at five storeys high. Too much after a full course dinner.

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Jageshwar Dham, Kumaon - A pristine temple town in the midst of Deodar Forest

Visit to pristine Jageshwar Dham

I heard in my dream that I was in a crowded place. Somebody yelled at his son to wake up to see Sunrise. Footsteps on our roof were heard. I woke up in a dark room and recalled that we were in Binsar. No lights in the room. I lit up the candles. Outside was still dark. We all woke up to view the Sunrise. Quickly we freshened up and dressed with jackets, gloves covered ourselves against the chilly morning.

It was windy and still dark outside.The last of the morning’s stars were glinting like silver pin pricks, luminous and bright. We came up at the viewing platform on roof of our building. Guests were all covered with winter clothings. After few minutes, the dawn had started breaking. 

Daybreak at Binsar

The sky in the opposite direction was still dark, but in the east, a mixture of yellow and orange on the horizon beneath a dark neon blue ocean of night that had begun to evaporate.

The rising sun laminated us with warmth

The distant snow peaks of Kumaon Himalaya shone in the morning rays. 

From Left to right - Trishul - Devastan - Nanda Devi

Trishul

Kumaon Range

Tea was served at the viewing platform. Everybody were happy to see the Sunrise. Some started doing Kapalbhati, few were getting ready with freehand exercise before the breakfast. 

Caretaker announced the availability of hot water in bucket. Attendant would bring that as required. Each bathroom has two buckets - one for collecting the hot water and other for mixing. Guests had to keep empty bucket outside the room in the corridor. Attendant carrying hot water in metal buckets poured hot water to the empty buckets. One bucket for each guest. 

We got freshened up. By the time, buffet breakfast was served at the dining hall. Delicious breakfast with variety of choices - bread, butter, jam, corn flakes, poori sabji, dahlia etc.

We had whole day to stay at Binsar. I was just studying the map hung in the corridor.

Places around Binsar

Jageshwar would be a nice place to visit and utilise the time. On enquiry, I was told that there is a drivable route between Gairad Bend to Palyu Bend, but the road is bad. After the breakfast we thought to give that a try.

We drove down to check post at the Bageshwar road, asked the guard whether we would have to pay the entry fees again. They confirmed that with presentation of last receipt, the security would allow us to enter again. Gladly we came out and drove towards Almora for two kilometers. We reached Gairad Bend. 

Gairad Bend named after Gairad god. There is a temple in this road.

I asked a passerby waiting at the bus stop. He asked for a lift, and I gladly accepted to get a guide free in this route. The road is a dirt road and lonely. There was no vehicular traffic in this road, so in case of emergency one has to manage oneself. So I decided to return by day time. Enroute, he wanted me to stop near a motorcycle parked roadside, no one was around. He thanked us.

Dirt road between Gairad bend to Palyu Bend

But the solitude in this road was overwhelming. Never felt such, as a part of nature in our city life. The road is passing through the sanctuary area. Unfortunately we could not encounter any wildlife in this road. 

Dirt road between Gairad bend to Palyu Bend

After 13 kilometer we came to a good tarred road and as directed, took right turn. That's Palyu Bend. 

The onward road was excellent, we reached Bare Chinna More and took left towards Artola. Oh, I missed the petrol pump at Bare Chinna as wanted to fill my tank. It read towards Empty. I trusted the person, I gave lift. He told that in Artola there is one petrol pump. Continuing our journey till Artola. The road was very good and the drive was enjoyable. Still finding no petrol pump we were informed that there is one 3 km ahead. 

However we wanted to visit Jageshwar Dham first and took left. We entered a narrow valley with tall pipe trees both side of the road. 

Jageshwar is located at an altitude of 1870 mts, in the  Jataganga river valley near a Deodar forest starting from Artola village on Almora – Pithoragarh highway, where two streams Nandini and Surabhi flow down the hills in the narrow valley and meet near the sacred spot.

Road to Jageshwar

Every sprawling tree we passed under reminded me of a watchful guardian, a silent sentinel of the groves.  

We saw a temple by our right across the stream flowing along the road. That is Dandeshwar Mahadev Temple - the gate keeper temple of Jageshwar Dham. 

Dandeshwar Mahadev at the entrance to Dham

The temple city comprises a cluster of 124 large and small stone temples, dating back from 9th to 13th century AD. Archaeological Survey of India now preserve some of these temples. 

Mrityunjoy Temple at the Jageshwar Dham complex

There are many temples, some of them are Chandi-ka-Temple, Jageshwar Temple, Kuber Temple, Mrityunjoy Temple, Nanda Devi or Nau Durga, Nava-grah temple, a Pyramidal shrine, and Surya Temple, amongst which the oldest shrine is the Mrityunjaya Temple. I could not stopped myself to experiment with another immersive 360° photo.

Jageshwar Dham Complex

For the devotees, there were lots of monkeys all around. They used to snatch the "Puja Offerings" and did not bother whether before the puja or after. So be careful.

Monkey business as usual in the temple premises

Now-a-days, the Government of Uttarakhand and Parmarth Niketan (Rishikesh) are jointly organizing the International Yoga Festival at Jageshwar.

Temple Complex

Jyotirling Jageshwar Temple

We spent quite some time here. On our way back, we took the road to Pithoragarh at Artola in search of a petrol pump. We found one HP Petrol pump at Gurrhabanj a small hamlet on the ridge. This only dealt with cash. No card system was available.

Humara Pump - HP initiative

Tankful, we trailed back the same route. As this area deals with cash only, we could locate an ATM only in Panuavanola, 4km from Artola. 

We resumed our journey again, on our right the snow clad peaks peeped out occasionally in open areas. 

Himalaya

By that time, it was lunch time and, we felt hungry, and were in search of a restaurant. At Palyu we could locate one restaurant which serve lunch. Great! 

I ordered some stuffed parathas and noodles (Maggi) - a staple diet in hills and always freshly prepared. We relished the dishes and after sometime we resumed our journey following the same route - the dirt road. Stomach full, my co-passengers fell asleep fast. At around 2:30 we reached at the check post. 

The guard identified us and allowed in. En route to TRH there is one open space and a temple - Veeneshwar Temple.

Veeneshwar Temple inside Binsar Sanctuary

Here I saw a remnant of British era. On our left there was a small hutment estd in 1907.

Hutment from british era estd in 1907

We reached TRH at 3:00pm. Grand outing to Jageshwar dham......

We joined the crowd at the viewing platform. Guests were gossiping, kids playing ludo, soaking in the mild afternoon Sun.

Kid, doing gymnastic - enjoying. They came from Mumbai.

Far ahead snow clad peaks still visible, playing hide and seek with clouds. We could see Panchocholi beyond Munsiyari. A group of guest landed here that day from Munsiyari and were very disheartened to be far from Himalaya. Obviously, Munsiyari is situated in the lap of Panchocholi and Binsar is a bit far. We did some photo session.

Panchocholi from Binsar

Peaks playing hide and seek

Trishul at setting Sun light

At nightfall again the daily routine of generator light - buffet dinner - and....waiting for another Sunrise to light up the world of Binsar....

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