Leh Trip Day 3: Deadly Sarchu

Day 3: Deadly Sarchu

"Sunshine on my shoulder makes me happy" - Sunshine on our shoulder made us happy. It was bright sunny day, when we came out of our shack. There was an open space in front where our bike were on stand. People were busy in fixing the bags while I was with my camera. Caretaker informed us the breakfast was ready. Towards east, between the mountains lie a snow -clad peak, possibly a glacier. A dark bare patch on this peak was free of snow. in the shape of a figure of a woman, walking with a load on her back. This is "The Lady of Keylong".

On the far side of Keylong towards south-east across the Bhaga gorge, there is a gompa - Khardang Gompa.

Lady of Keylong & Darcha Checkpost

Smoking hot Alu Paratha were served with butter cubes, which melts like a lake formed out of iceberg. Added dish of potato curry would keep our hunger at bay till afternoon. We bade adieu to our host with ample tips commensurate to the free breakfast we had and set off. We came down to market at Rash Behari chowk and through the market we started for our next stop at Sarchu.

We crossed Keylong TRC (Chandrabhaga) overlooking the bus stand on our left. the road was good, and almost leveled. We crossed few streams running over the causeways to river below. Bhaga river was flowing on our right.

Deepak Taal before Patseo

"I am curvaceous. Drive slow!" the road sign we saw somewhere, kept our speed in secure. We reached Jispa, a small village with camping grounds. There is a hotel Ibex and a helipad over here. The river and the road goes parallel, side by side, for some time. I stopped -  one by one the bike were coming. Nice, sunny weather, perfect for photoshoot! I took my camera out of my jacket and started shooting. Alok was not far off. We already covered twenty kilometer since we left Keylong.

We waited for Sarkar to reach us and then headed for Darcha - next village or the last habitated village in Himachal on the Manali Leh highway. The terrain became rugged, causeways, broken road, landslides marked the ferocity of the nature of other seasons. 

We reached Darcha village.  A lot of good "dhaba"s or restaurants are there. Darcha is the starting point of several treks in this region. The village actually is on the other side of Zanskar chhu (nullah or stream). Another stream, Yotche nullah, joins Bhaga river from the far side. The Bhaga valley is quite wide here. 

Me negotiating the graveled road

There was a police check post before the bridge. We showed our vehicle papers, licenses and got through the barrier. The bridge was just clearing the gushing water of the Zanskar chhu.

Two switchbacks and we left the green zone. Landscapes become stony, rugged, dry, scattered bushes but the sky was azure blue and sunny with specks of cumulus cloud. There were gravel throughout the road due to land slides, streams flowing over the road, we had to be cautiously adventurous lest we fall.

Nearing Baralacha La

After around 14 kilometer, I found a lake on our left. I stopped followed by Alok. It was a nice blue lake like a lapis lazuli. I tried to locate Sarkar, and found him negotiating small boulders on the road and waters on the streams. The driver of a tourist vehicle told that the name of the lake is Deepak Tal.

Zingzingbar - twisting road, with broken stones, gravels. From a leveled road after few hairpins I could see the whole valley and few dots on the dirt track. 

When you are riding the bike, you can only see the narrow track which is safe to follow - no side ways view or looking here and there. You will not fall down - you will straight go up. No body can survive a fall on these roads.

Suraj Taal

Two cyclists, from Europe waved at us. Seemed, a couple, dared to travel along MLH and fulfilling their dream of high altitude cycling, 16000 ft is higher than the height of Mt Blanc - the highest peak of Europe (4810mt).

The road was going up and up. On the opposite face we saw trucks coming down. They are the lifeline of Leh, supplying goods to Ladakh from plains. Kudos to these drivers!

The valley was wide but the river Bhaga is like a stream. We are approaching Baralacha La. On a quick turn a lake appeared on our right. That is Suraj Tal, the origin of Bhaga River. We were nearing Baralacha La. 

At Baralacha

We were lucky to pass through these regions in relatively dry condition - no snow on the road. We spent sometime at the top and then thinking of Sarchu we continued our journey. It was now downhill, but the road was really narrow and broken with streams flowing over the road. On our right it was a wide valley down below.

Straight road, down down, we reached a place where few tourist vehicle were parked in front of some tents. They serve food by day and provide accommodation by night.  A signboard was telling the place name "BHARATPUR".

Wide valley at Bharatpur

After a short break at Bharatpur we continued. It was already in the afternoon. The streams were already gushing over the road. We came across a huge one, running over the road. Estimating the depth of the stream, we mapped the track we should follow. Ahead there was a hairpin and again the same stream met the track and ran along, another hairpin to a bridge over a canyon. We could hear the sound the river gushing through the gorge.

With legs wide as balance pole we entered into stream on 1st gear full throttle, till we are in knee deep freezing water. Bottom of the baggages, axle, chain all inside the water, we kept on pushing and one by one we reached the other side.  We were wet below knee. We found steps made by Army to the bridge directly below us in a steep down slope. This would bypass the next encounter with stream on the track, but missing the road or slipping means direct fall to the gorge.

Again 1st gear, brakes, slowly we came down step by step on our mean machines. We were on road again. In these terrain it is always advisable to start early in the morning and stop by the afternoon or after lunch, because all these snow fed streams become rivers during the late day. 

Darcha Checkpost Baralach La & Sarchu

2-3 kilometers of twisted roads, we reached a flat wide area, with moutains quite apart. On our left the was crack on the flat plane - a canyon formed by the river over the ages. We stooped for a while seeing a shepherd and his pasmina sheep out of nowhere. 

I decided to check the status of petrol and opened up the lock. POP! a burst of petrol vapor came out. Let it released, I took out the jerricane and fitted a funnel to pour petrol. Oh ho ho!, petrol started bubbling out. Not to loose it in continuous pouring I started poring it in small part - 250ml or so at a time and let the vapor/ air came out. Slowly the tank was full and the container was still having plenty of it. I shared it with the team to empty out the container.

Behind Tents at Sarchu

We started in relax mode, its still day time and our destination was not far off, seemed in the same altitude. On the way we crossed Antrk Camp - a luxurious adventure travel company. A puncture repair shop for the first time in this route was a feel good experience.  We could see lots of tents on the other side of a gorge formed by the river coming down the mountain. from our right. We reach our destination SARCHU. - a recommended place for acclimatization in the high altitude terrain.

Sarchu Landscape

Surprisingly, we found that our trousers, shoes and all were dry, because of the intense energy coming out of us. We actually forgot that during gear shifting, braking. 

We parked in front of a tent and found that it could offer us the night stay. Inspected inside and happy with the arrangement, we just relaxed and ordered tea. And it affected us already, that high altitude sickness. Except Alok & Sunil, all were some how affected. I felt sleepy - not like to move just laid down, not even felt like sipping tea.

ITBP Transit Camp at Sarchu

It was 7:30 in the evening, lights of setting sun made different hues across the mountain. Across the road on the far side there was an ITBP camp, a small town by itself. This was a transit camp for acclimatization of the ITBP troops coming from plains.The blue sky was sparkling. We sat outside in the icy wind till stars appearing in the sky.

We came inside, tried to experiment with an oxygen cylinder we were carrying. We ordered the pet menu - "Dal, Roti, Sabji" - a staple diet to carry forward. Beds were arranged radially, in this circular tent. It was relatively warm inside due to multilayer tent canvases, and the kerosene stove burning continuously for food preparation, boiling, etc.. . We came out of the feather blanket for the dinner and felt the cold while holding the hot Roti (Phulka). In no time it was like a Papad. We could break it instead of tearing. 

We had a good dinner, warm accommodation and a good night sleep, while the wind outside was singing a lullaby for us.

Continued.....

Leh Trip Day 2: Crossing Rohtang

Following Manali-Leh Highway - the journey began 

It was a sunny morning, we fastened our bags on both side of pillion seats and kept sleeping bags and tent on the rear seat. Each bike was carrying ten kgs on seat and twenty kgs on either side of the wheel when fully loaded. This included 20 liters of petrol we would fill in a jerricane on the way.

We had our tea, got our cameras ready. I asked Sunil to ride my bike for some stretch so that I can shoot on the move. The road serpentine along the Beas valley.  It is a wide glacial valley. We passed Bhuntar, Kullu, Raison and reached Manali. Bhuntar has the only airport in Kullu valley. We kept riding as everybody in the team visited Manali earlier. Our next destination was Keylong, the head quarter of Lahoul.

Keylong is on the other side of Pir Panjal range, which guards Manali from the colds of the upper reaches of Himalaya. This mountain range runs across the inner Himalayan region, running from east-southeast (ESE) to west-northwest (WNW) across the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir. 

Leaving Manali we were on the left banks of Beas. On the way at Bahang village there is a heliport of SASE (Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment). SASE is one of the World's largest avalanche research Institute. The center is located in the heart of Himalaya at Solang Valley, a major tourist attraction for adventure sports aficionados. To reach Solang valley one has to go stratight towards Solang nala at 10 km post from Manali Bus Stand. The road on the right goes to Rohtang. 

We started climbing Pir Panjal range from Palchan village. The landscape was panoramic but the vehicular traffic on the narrow stretch of the road took toll on travel time. We were lucky on two wheeler and  reached Marhi crossing Beas as a rivulet. 

Crossing Rohtang Barrier

There are seasonal shops, restaurants with most businesses close during the winter. Marhi is above tree line having lush green meadows. The place remains a stopover for transit visitors and tourists during summer and autumn seasons and a transit place for the people to wait for the ferocious weather to improve at Rohtang La ('La' is pass in Tibetan Language) to cross over to Lahaul and Spiti valley, during the winter months.

We saw paragliders sailed down through mystic cloud playing hide and seek in the snow-capped mountains. We ordered our breakfast "Alu Paratha" (handmade bread with stuffed potato mashed with onion, garlic, chilly) & hot tea. It was cold as we were at 3,300 m (11,020 ft). The final ascent to Rohtang would start from here. We could see vehicles lined up on the vertical face of the mountains.  

Stomach full, we kicked off our bikes. Few hairpin bends, narrow steep road, tourist traffic and after some time we are on the Pass - Rohtang above 13000 feet. River Beas or Vipasha originates from Vyas kund here. 

We were on the first barrier on the way to Leh. There would be several more crossing of the Himalayas. 

"Splendid sixty seven RCC" of Border Road Organisation welcomed us at the Zero point. Beyond the the concrete plaque it was a wall of cloud with zero visibility. I missed a beat when I recollected the travelogue "Līlābhūmi Lāhula" which I read during my childhood. Literally, Ro (dead bodies) - thang (pile) means - "pile of dead bodies" in Tibetan language. Rohtang is one of the most frequented pass since ancient trade days as it connects Lahoul valley of upper Himalaya with the Kullu valley in the south. This pass is infamous for its most unpredictable weather pattern. Snowstorms and blizzards are frequented this place without any prior warning. So better, not to stay for long and start to decent on the other side - an unknown territory.

The road was leveled, muddy from the melting snow for a short stretch and then the steep descent starts with a good number of switchbacks. We were cautious at the hairpin as the angle of descent was almost 30 deg on the inner side of the road. The visibility became

At Gramphoo

clearer, the more we descend. After 16 km we reached Gramphoo. The road joining us from right comes from Spiti valley over the Kunzum La along the Chandra river. Chandra river originates from Chandra Tal, is a tributary to Chandrabhaga river (Chenab).  

We stopped for warm Thukpa at Khoksar and enjoyed the warmed of the sun. Lahoul is a rain shadow zone.  The weather became clear as we descended.  After Khoksar, we crossed Chenab and then continued along Chandra river on the right banks. In few stretches the roads were broken, under constructions. The alpine landscape with sparse vegetation around some hutments looked like emerald. These are the villages cultivating potato as main crops. We crossed Sissu, famous for temple with presiding deity Geyphan named after the mountain peak. Gondla is famous for a multistory castle of historic importance.

We saw a signboard of "Indian Oil Corporation" saying one kilometer ahead at Tandi, there is the "Last Filling Station" to tank up. Next is 365 kilometer ahead. We tanked up to the brim and 
filled spare petrol in jerricane, each bike carrying 20 liters extra. From then on we had to drive cautiously - no skidding or falling. We needed this spare petrol as we would drive mostly on lower gear to negotiate the ups and downs of the road.

View Larger Map

We crossed a bridge over the Bhaga river and headed towards Keylong 7 km of slow ascent. Downstream, there is the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga river and the making of Chandrabhaga.  A road following Chandrabhaga goes towards Udeypur and further to Chamba in Himachal via Sach Pass or Patnitop in Jammu & Kashmir. 

From Khoksar, I was leading with Alok, on his Thunderbird was just behind me. Sunil doubling with Kandy and Sarkar at last trailing us.

The road was narrow, on a vertical wall, Bhaga river down below was on a rapid. We were following a convoy of trucks. Black smokes, smelling unburnt diesel, oozing out of the exhaust of trucks. These loaded trucks were struggling to go uphill. I saw the drivers face in trucks side view mirror on each turn and was waiting for his signal to overtake. Alok, in the meantime, started honking, asking for side pass. Irritatingly, the drive gave us side on a turn. Quickly, I shifted down a gear to first, released throttle, jumped ahead, geared up to second, few second more but saw a bus coming down from opposite side. Pressed brake instantly to nearly zero speed to come behind the truck and THUD!  Alok could not control the momentum of his Thunderbird and hit me on the baggage side.  All safe, the bus passed by. I asked Alok to keep distance and while overtaking not to irritate the drivers with repeated honking. "When a hill-driver sees us, he will give us side at the right opportunity."

We reached to the center of the Keylong market. Our revolutionary leader Rash Behari Bose spent some time in this town after the attempt to assassinate Lord Hardinge. 

We searched for a descent accommodation and finally managed to get rooms at Circuit House. It was six pm in the afternoon. The rooms were so so with attached toilet, not so clean - not maintained, I could say.  There was a open space in front of the house. We parked our bikes there in the open. All started to unpack the baggage for the night stay except me. Alok told me to unpack lest nothing would remain in the morning. I said, we are at 10000 feet above the so called civilized zone, where, people are greedy. My experience and trust on hill people allow me to keep my belongings out in the open. Let us see if anybody touches those, in the morning.

Caretaker, asked us for the dinner menu. We decided to keep it simple to keep us running for the next days. "Dal, roti, sabji, egg curry & salad", we said. Serving hot, this was an  excellent dinner after a day long journey.

Being tired, we went fast asleep and the day closed.

continued .....

Leh Trip Day 1: Targeting Manali

Journey through Manali-Leh Highway (MLH in short)

Ladakh - The land of the lamas.  

In the West it is sometimes referred to as Moon country and Little Tibet, framed in a parallel fashion by two of the most imposing mountain ranges, the Karakorams to the North, the Himalayas to the South. 

They seem to have been placed near young and powerful rivers, the Shayok, Siachen, Zanskar and the Indus, to contrast harmoniously with the austere magnificence of the Ladakhi landscapes. 

Statue of Maitreya

Getting down at Leh, the capital, stretching out its human canvas between the Indus and the mountains or while crossing several passes on the road from Manali, the traveler is primarily moved by a single emotion. Yes, his eyes, he feels, are much too small; the altitude combined with the absolute purity of the air, the mountains of varied colours. A world before which one has to relearn how to look, with the large wide-eyed gaze of a wonderstruck child.

To the north of Leh is the Beacon Highway which seems to never stop rising ever higher, an astral quest.

The highest road in the world; Khardung La offers to our gaze a forbidden valley: Nubra. Here the Siachen meets the Shayok in an expanse of greenery contrasting remarkably with the rest of Ladakh.

It is a general practice that the youngest son of each family becomes a monk. To the uninitiated, the Buddhist principle of 'compassion' is perhaps the most visible trait of the religion in Ladakh.

The longest day

We were all set to plan for a place  - planning for a trip during summer holidays. Just then, I got a call of the mountains - Kandy called me if I was willing to join them on a motor bike trip to Leh.

It was an irresistible invitation, which I could not miss. We were five in the team - and four mean machines (two Thunderbirds, one Fiero and one unforgettable Splendour) - set for the journey on fifth of July 2004.

I was the navigator on my Fiero. I had already planned the daily itinerary, route, night stays and briefed our team prior to the journey. 

We were highly charged, crossed Dehradun, Herbertpur enroute to Pinjore.  We encountered a torrential rains, near Asaan Barage but nothing gonna stop us now. Covered with rain suits, we continued. We wished, we had wipers on our visors. 

We are: Sarkar, Alok, Kandy, Sunil & myself

Entering Himachal Pradesh at Paonta Shahib, we had to show our vehicle papers. On the right banks of river Yamuna, Paonta Shahib is a small bustling town, has linkages to the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh.

Nearing Nahan, we took Kala Amb-Narayangarh route towards Chandigarh. We drove on through Pinjore towards Nalagarh. The road was narrow with bushes on both side except near the villages. In most of the places work was going on to widen the road. And, we were behind trucks climbing up slope with full load. Slow speed, black smoke, irritated us. We somehow managed to overtake the vehicles to reach Nalagarh following NH21A. We had our lunch break at Swarghat at a roadside dhaba. Our mean machines performed satisfactorily till now. We were satisfied and still hoping to reach Manali before night fall. And miles to go before we sleep.

We were about to set off and I discovered that I had a puncture at rear wheel. Fortunately, there were a tyre repair shop 50 mtrs ahead. He used to repair truck tyres but not bike tyres, but with our help he did a great job and carried on our journey. We crossed Sutlej river near Slapper and reached Mandi via Sundernagar. There is a Shyama Kali Temple in Mandi. Heard that, this is one of the few temples outside Bengal having the same idol of famous Kalighat temple.  It was afternoon by then, as we lost an hour for puncture repair. 

We had a tea-break at Pandoh overlooking the embankment dam over river Beas. There is a lake formed upstream of the dam along the gorge. The water is used for power generation at the Dehar Power House before being discharged into the Sutlej River, connecting both rivers.

Crossing Beas over Pandoh dam we took the right banks of the river. Constructions were going on for Larji Hydel Project near Aut. A 3 km long traffic tunnel, built on the National Highway 21 (the Kullu-Manali highway), and had to be realigned due to the construction of the power project. 

View Larger Map

It was a well lit tunnel, I was travelling trough this tunnel for the second time. It was another story when I travelled it for the first time.

We reached Aut with an awe on tunnel construction. Tired, exhausted, with evening approaching we called it a day.

We managed to convince a manager of a roadside hotel to keep our loaded bikes in a narrow passage at the entry. On settling down we ordered our dinner, had a walk down the street of this small town.

From here a road goes to Shimla via Jalori Pass. I once missed that route twelve years back as it was snow covered by then. On that route, Larji, is a small hamlet famous for trout fishing. The rivers Sainj and Tirthan join the Beas a few hundred meter below from here. This place is patronised by anglers.

continued ......